Mike's Natural Musings: Scotland, September 2014, Achmelvich Day 8

Monday 22 September 2014

Scotland, September 2014, Achmelvich Day 8

A change of pace again today back to our usual get up and go itinerary. We wanted to visit Durness and the far north coast so we set the alarm for 6.00 and were off and away by 8.00 stopping briefly in Lochinver for some cash. Our drive followed the same route as for Sandwood Bay a few days ago, but this time we continued northwards for 10 miles or so. The road very quickly became single track with passing places and it was amazing to think that this was the main road. The countryside up here consists of craggy, rocky, hummocky hills seeming to poke through the thick carpet of heather and bracken, with every so often a majestic mountain piercing the sky and rising straight from the flow country. It is like nothing we have seen before. When we reached Durness, it was still bright, though yet again hazy, and the sun even came out for photographs of Sango Sands, yet another white sand beach. Above it perches the campsite, which came highly recommended. It is, indeed, in a spectacular position, but very exposed and vulnerable to gales from the sea. Out next port of call was Balnakeil and Fharaid Beach and headland. Guarding the entrance to the beach is the 17^th century house originally built by the Clan Macleod and opposite it the cemetery and ruined church. The beach is a fabulous 2 mile stretch of pure white sand backed by huge dunes. This is where the Kyle of Durness meets the sea, which, as usual up here is inky, Prussian blue in deep water with turquoise and jade green in the shallows. From the end of the beach we clambered up to the headland with extensive views out to sea and across to Cape Wrath, the lighthouse prominent on the clifftop. At £40 pp we opted for the walk on the beach rather than the ferry and minibus trip to the cape itself. On the way home we had excellent views of a 6 point red deer stag with his herd of hinds close by the side of the road at Kylesku. From here we followed the coast road home via Drumbeg and now sit cosily in the van with gloom and rain outside. Beer o’clock I think.

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